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Associazione Italiana per l'Agricoltura Biologica
NA.02 Rev.00
ORGANIC ENVIRONMENTAL FRIENDLY COSMETICS
STANDARDS
INDEX
II.AimIII.Application fieldIV.Standards referencesV.Terms II.MulticriteriaIII.PackagingsIV.LabellingV.MarkVI.Enclosures Enclosures 1 – Forbidden raw materials (in alphabetic and numeric order)Enclosure 2 – MulticriteriaEnclosure 3 – Forbidden packaging material Redazione
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I. INTRODUCTION
The Italian Organic Farming Association (AIAB) and the Institute for the Ethic Certification(ICEA) together with a group of manufacturers, aimed at producing organic andenvironmental friendly beauty products, draw up the following Standards, in order to allowthe producers interested in this kind of activity to get more information regarding the organiccertification and the way to obtain the products label according to the words: “AIAB Organic,environmental friendly beauty products” (= Bio Eco cosmesi AIAB), and the proper logo asreported in AIAB criteria concerning the collective trade mark and/or the quality trade mark.
Certification and Control procedures will be carried out by an external independentcertification body which by means of its technicians , will check the compliance with thestandards.
These Standards should be regarded as a mere guideline which is suitable to changes andmodifications.
II. GOALS
AIAB and the above mentioned partners are going to achieve and implement these maingoals: - In body care/treatments: the use of environmental friendly beauty products which takecare of the consumers’ health. Moreover they should be able to satisfy every particular needthrough a precise and clear definition of organic, environmental friendly beauty products.
- The Definition of the basic requirements for the products "Eco-BioCosmetics”, which are listed in order to give the mark reported in Chapter 2, paragraph V.
? The use of raw materials of organic farming origin or deriving from spontaneous ? The use of beauty products which do not pollute the environment ( dangerous substances contained both in product and packaging).
? The use of beauty products which do not contain raw materials of non plant origin and could be dangerous i.e. allergic or irritant substances or anyway harmful forthe human health. ? The reduction of the environmental pollution caused by unnecessary packaging (mono packaging) which are not recyclable ( it is advisable to use recycling packaging,recycling material or linked to a returnable/recycling waste) ? The production is made following the latest environmental friendly methods ? Cut down of the environmental pollution starting from production ?? The use of really natural beauty products, giving the consumers the possibility to recognise immediately the really natural ones.
? The creation of a data bank which is used to find the organic raw materials or APPLICATION FIELD
The products subject to the Standards are those pertaining to the application sphere of theLaw 713/86 and following modifications and integration.
STANDARDS REFERENCES
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I.N.C.I. Standards for ingredients and labels TERMS (*):
raw material: ingredient which is contained in the end productend product: beauty products which is packed and soldraw materials from plant origin: plants or plant parts or plant extracts obtained bypressing or distillation. In case of extraction, plant solvents (oil extracts or hydroalcolicextracts ) could be mixed.
(*)These terms will be enriched in order to explain the basic concepts and to avoid Chapter 2
I RAW MATERIALS
For each product a form containing a full declaration of the ingredients reported the INCIregulation should be filled in.
The authorisation procedure is carried out when the declaration is being made. In doubtfulcases regarding the raw material used in the primary process, the certification body couldrequire further explanations which ensure the harmless and environmental friendly quality ofthe product.
In order to promote a further customers’ safety the producer has the task to communicate ina suitable document the presence of additives in the raw material before its use as for ex:preservatives when they are not reported in the technical form. This will be helpful for thecontrol body in order to check and control the presence of non-stated substances on thebasis of the given data of the document.
As regards essential plant oils used as perfumes in cosmetic industry, they can be reportedas perfume (according to the law ) , without explaining the nature and percentage exceptfor the producer declaration that these are non- synthetic essential oils Substances
The human being lived and adapted to natural substances since long times so that the natural substances
are generally considered not dangerous for the human health.
The processing of raw materials should produce few aggressive products obtained withfew chemical processes. Every certified end product should satisfy the under reported criteria.
Raw material of plant origin
The raw materials of plant origin as plants or part of them, must be of organic farming originor certified as natural gathering products. Exception are allowed only in case it is not possible to find the certified ingredient on the national market. In every case, GMO rawmaterials or with gamma rays irradiation are forbidden.
Moreover the use of plants is forbidden when the species is endangered.
Glicerin of plant origin is allowed in the rate of 20% in weight when the product containsequal percentage of water.
Raw materials of animal origin
Raw materials of animal origin must be of organic farming. Exceptions are admitted onlywhen it is not possible to find the certified ingredients.
Raw materials of animal origin are forbidden when animals have to be killed.
Raw materials of bacterial fermentation are allowed.
Inorganic raw materials
Inorganic raw materials are generally admitted, except for those reported in the enclosures.
Chemical Raw materials
Raw materials obtained by means of chemical processes are allowed only when there is noother alternative and must satisfy the following criteria:- The ethoxillation of the raw material is forbidden . Raw materials reported in the enclosures are forbidden ( negative list) Animal testing
The animal testing of the end product is forbidden both in research and development phase
and during the control of the end product.
GMO
It is forbidden the use of:
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The use of risky GMO raw material is anyway not advisable as for ex. maiz, potatoesand soja derivatives.
Irradiation
The use of gamma irradiation in the end product and the use of gamma irradiated
ingredients is forbidden for bactericidal and fungicide purposes.
II MULTICRITERIA:
There are further evaluation criteria which are not all-important for the certification and give
the right to have a suitable logo. For the definition of the multicriteria, see the enclosures for
each category.
III PACKAGINGS:
For the primary packaging (direct contact with the cosmetic, vials or bowlers etc.) areadmitted only recyclable containers for alimentary use . Packaging material harmful forhuman health are forbiddenFor the secondary packaging, is required a reduced and environmental friendly packagingabove all from natural recyclable raw materials , which respect the natural environmentThe packaging material should be reduced , except when it is strictly necessary because ofthe product’s features: for ex it is admitted cartoon box for a bottle provided with a droppercap in order to easier the storing operation both in production phase and during selling toconsumer.
The materials reported in enclosure III are forbidden.
IV LABELLING
must contain, where possible, enough indications which help the consumer to recognise the ingredient and to allow the right interpretation.
(es: “decyl glucoside”, in the translation which follows or anticipate the complete declaration “suface-active agent”, “potassium sorbate” is translated as “preservative substance”).
The label should be readable, especially for the part concerning the ingredients. When it isnot possible to specify these ingredients in label, it is advisable to hand out informationmaterial. Products which obtained the quality mark without being duly certified must be withdrawnfrom the market at the producer’s expenses.
The mark “bio-environmental friendly cosmetics” is granted to: ? Products which satisfy the requirements of these standards and are part of a line of ? In case the cosmetic industry produces non – certified/ conventional beauty products too, the bio-environmental friendly cosmetic line should be provided with acommercial mark and a graphic packaging which is different from the non certifiedproduct, so that the consumer is able to recognise immediately the certified productfrom the conventional one.
? However, in case the commercial mark is the same of the producers’ name, it is possible to keep the same commercial mark but the certified line should beimmediately recognisable by the consumer in comparison to the non-certifiedproducts.
VI ENCLOSURES
The application field of the standards will be periodically updated and also the list of theforbidden raw materials Enclosure 1
Forbidden raw materials (in numeric order)
1
1, 2, 4-Benzenetriacetate1, 2, 4-Trihydroxybenzene Redazione
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Forbidden raw materials (in alphabetic order)
Aluminium Isostearates/Laurates/Stearates Benzophenon-1, -2, -3, -4, -5, -6, -7, -8, -9, Beheneth-5, -10, -20, -25, (Behenalkohol) Dimethicone Copolyol Butyl Ether (Silikon) Dimethicone Copolyol Isostearate (Silikon) Dimethiconol Fluoroalcohol Dilinolelic Acid Hdi/Trimethyiol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer Hydrogenated Poly-Isobutene (künstliches Bürzeldrüsenfett, vulgo Fluidum sybillii) Hydrogenated Talloweth-60-Myristyl-Glycol Octylacrylamide/Acrylates/Butylaminoesthy PEG-(n) (n steht für verschiedene Zahlen) Polyquaternium-1, -2, -4, -5, -6, -7, -8, -9, Quaternium-8, -14, -15, -16, -22, -24, -26, -27, -30, -33, -43, -45, -51, -52, -53, -56, -60, -61, -62, -63, -70, -71, -72, -73, -75, Sulfo-Phenylazonaphthol-SulfonsäureSynthetic Wax (Paraffinwachs)TTEA-CarbomerTEA-C12-C15-Alcohol-SulfateTEA-Dodecylbenzene-SulfonateTEA-EDTATEA-Lauryl-SulfateTEA-StearateTEA-TallateTetrabrom-FluoresceinTetrachlor-Tetrabrom-FluoresceinTetrahydroxy-Propylen-Ethylen-DiamineTetrajod-FluoresceinTetrapotassium-PyrophosphateTetrasodium-EDTATetrasodium EtidronateTetrasodium-PyrophosphateThiolanediolThiomersalTolueneToluene-2, -5-DiamineTosylchloramidumTranexamic AcidTriceteareth-4-PhosphateTrichloro-EthaneTriclocarbanTriclosanTrideceth-12 etc.
Tricresyl-PhosphateTriethanol-AmineTriethylene-Glycol-DistearateTrilaureth-4-PhosphateTrimethyl-Ammonium-Benzylidenbornanon-MethylsulfatTrimethyl-SiloxysilicateTrisodium-EDTATrisodium-PhosphateVVA/Crotonates/Vinyl NeodecanoateVat Blue 6Vat Red 1VA/Vinyl Butyl Benzoate/CrotonatesCopolymerXXyleneZZetesol 856TZinc Borate (Borsäure)Zinc ChlorideZinc SulfateZinc Undecylenate Enclosure 2
Multicriteria
We are working out the criteria concerning the single products (lipsticks, shampoo and oil
solutions etc.) which grant the suitable logo. The standard will be enforceable with the
definition and publication of these criteria.
Enclosure 3
Forbidden packaging material
Polyvinyl chloride and its derivatesBakelitePlastic materials which release dioxin during combustion process Redazione
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Source: http://www.delleco.fi/doc/AIAB_bio_eco_cosmesi.pdf